home is a four-letter word

I'm home, and while I'm happy to forgo doing my laundry in sinks, I'd still rather be in India. Sigh. 3 1/2 weeks just ain't enough.

But on the bright side, I have over 2000 pictures to help me remember the trip. I posted a bunch of them here. I still plan to write a couple more entries, for posterity's sake. But right now, I'm planning to catch up on my Netflix movies and sleep.

mega mart

Stopped in to check out the Mega Mart where you can pick up oil and spices, and a button-down collared shirt!
Snack food aisle:

I tried the mini samosas (how could I not? Look how cute they are in miniature form!). Very tasty.

good-bye goa, hello delhi

First meal in Goa: fish curry. Yum.

This Goan specialty, fried prawns, was amazing. It had this tasty coating with a spicy kick, sprinkled with a little cornmeal.

Next course, pork vindaloo, another Goan specialty. It’s India’s answer to southern bbq, but with a little vinegar and, of course, loads of spices. Heavenly.
No more Goan delights for me; I left Goa and flew to Delhi, arrived a couple of day ago. All that good eating has its price; my stomach is a bit touchy. So I'm easing off the spices a little.

And so yesterday, as I was walking around Connaught Place, horror of horrors, I walk past a TGI Friday's. I snicker and walk on. After passing a few seedy-looking places as Delhi's unforgivable sun is beating down on my head, I pause, turn around slowly, and make my way back to TGI Friday's.

Now before my fellow foodies flay me, I have to say part of the reason I wanted to eat there was because I was curious to see what a TGI Friday's in India would even look like. A sociological pursuit of sorts. And now I know. It looks like, well, a TGI Friday's in Anywhere, USA. Same loud music, tacky decorations and red-and-white striped everything. The only exception: waitstaff required to wear cowboy hats:



So I ordered a coke and a hamburger. Just kidding. But I did order a lamb burger (TGI Friday's [Delhi] specialty!).

The lettuce was brown and wilted, the tomato sweet and crisp, the bun just a regular chain restaurant-grade bun. Nicely char-grilled lamb patty. Some crisp and sour pickle slices thrown in. All in all, a damn tasty burger! The fries tasted just like Bojangle's seasoned fries, yummy.

oh my Goa, t'was nice to know ya

For the ladies: kickboxing team from India!


They were all getting henna tattoos. I asked one of the guys (last one on the right in the pic above) why he didn't get a tattoo of his mother on his arm. "What? Mudder? MY mudder?!" I nodded. "Tattoo of mudder. That's stupid." Then he smiled and laughed and whacked one of the other guys on the leg.


Obligatory pic of sun setting:

last night in goa, and the head wobble

It's my last night in Goa. I'm sad. It's a beautiful place, and the beaches are stunning. (Yes, I brought my pale body to the beach. My face is as red as mutton vindaloo right now.) Sadly, I don't have any pics to share. I just dropped off my two 2GB memory cards at the Fujifilm store on 18th June Road (that's the actual name, no kidding!) so I can delete and start taking more.

But before I go on, I have to share this interesting phenomenon that I noticed here in India. People do this curious head wobble thing, gently bobbing their head in a circular motion (I'm trying it out discreetly at my computer terminal right now). I'm not sure why they do it. I'll have to ask about that while I'm here....

So back to the Fujifilm place, I ask how much it costs to burn one CD. The guy at the counter wobbles his head and says "75 rupees." I ask if they burn DVDs. He says yes, that it will cost 300 rupees total--150 rupees for each memory card. I'm confused, wondering why the cost for CDs are per CD, whereas for DVDs, it is per memory card. I ask about this very nicely, but I can tell he doesn't want to haggle with a silly American. With head wobbling, he takes my question and repeats it as a statement, "Each CD is 75 rupees." (pause) (head wobble) "To burn a DVD, it's 150 rupees for each memory card." He stopped looking at me after the first word was spoken; the rest was directed to the memory cards sitting on the counter.

Perhaps tomorrow when I pick up the DVD, I will ask him about the head wobble. I'm sure he would most appreciate it.

whoa, super fast connection in goa!

I'm taking advantage of this super fast connection. I've uploaded some pics from the Ajanta and Ellora caves, along with some pics of some families I met.

My driver Aleem, and a goat!


This is one of the families who took my picture. And so I took one of them.


Another family. I snapped one photo, then asked if they wanted to see a preview on my LCD screen. They all crowded around my little camera in .05 seconds. When I asked to take another photo, they immediately started smoothing their hair down, particularly the men, and agreed:


And here is a pic post-grooming:






These girls were particularly lovely. I took some video of them singing in one of the caves. I'll have to upload it on Youtube when I get back.

pics of bombay

new plan

Well, just as I anticipated, my plans got all scrambled. I was supposed to catch a 6:50 pm train tonight from Mumbai to Jaipur, but luckily my friend Ankit emailed me before I left, warning me about some riots that broke out in Rajasthan, which are getting worse. The riots started a few days ago, when one particular community in India, the Gujjar, began a protest campaign for more government benefits. The BBC gives a rather tidy synopsis. It's crazy. At least 23 are dead. There's a shoot-on-sight order in two districts of Rajasthan. Needless to say, I won't be going to Jaipur right now. I'm really thankful for Ankit's warning, glad he knew I was headed there. My train was one of the few that was not cancelled, or else I would have blithely gone on. And now I know to check ahead for such news before traveling.

So I'm making a few changes. Going to head further south to Goa. If the riots don't cool down in time for me to take a train up to Delhi (all train and bus routes wind through Rajasthan), I will fly to Delhi, where it's supposed to reach a cool 115 degrees by Friday.

A thali lunch--with Ankit!

This particular thali was all veg, and despite being the carnivore that I am, it was very satisfying! Thali is basically a meal consisting of a selection of different dishes. This particular place served unlimited food, buffet-style, and they brought the food to YOU--very dangerous when one is very hungry and very lazy. It was like Indian dim sum. One all-you-can-eat thali was 135 rupees = $3.36. The roti was divine, especially after the waiter drizzled a little ghee over it. We finished off the meal with a tasty yogurt drink, and Ankit got these delicious rice ball thingies (note to self: must write down names of such items next time).

This tiny feast was had at Chowpatty Beach:

I also tried this snack, wish I could remember what it was called. Ankit and his sister Sadvhi (aurgh, I'm probably butchering the spelling of her name) motioned for me to stand closer to the food vendor. I was given a small silver dish with a puffy cracker-like thing, sitting in a little sea of light green juice. A hole was punched through the top, more juice inside with some chick peas floating captive in the cracker. I was instructed to pop the whole thing in my mouth, no small feat as the cracker is about the size of a large bon bon. I almost choked when I bit into it; all that juice kind of exploded and I wasn't expecting it. It was sweet (mango?), minty, a bit sour, spicy, crunchy... delicious!

aurangabad was aurangaGOOD

I'm about to catch an overnight train from Aurangabad back to Bombay in about half an hour, so I have to make this short. I've been in Aurangabad for the last two days, checking out the Ajanta and Ellora caves. Some date back to 400 AD. The caves have these monolithic Buddhist and Hindu sculptures--amazing. Words don't do them justice; I'll have to post pics of them so you can see for yourself. Computers here are achingly slow (took over an hour to post the last entry w/ pics), but I promise to get more pics up when I have a chance--along with pics of FOOD!!!

But I do have a funny little story to share while I was at the caves. Okay, so while I'm getting used to the open-jawed stares and double takes, I wasn't ready for the rockstar treatment. People came up to me to ask if they can take my picture. Sure, alright. Next thing I know, the entire family--mother, daughters, sons, aunties, cousins--they all crowd around me, smiling widely for the camera. It happened at least 5 times, no kidding. They ask where I'm from ("America! Not Japan?"), and as soon as the picture is taken, they smile shyly and ask me questions about my husband or home (I'm wearing a fake ring). One family asked if they could take my picture, and after I agreed, they shoved their crying infant into my arms. The baby was flailing its chubby little arms all over the place while the family was encouraging, "picture! picture!"

some pics

A window seat with a view






taxi driver, take thee to dosa diner!







let sleeping dogs...sleep. (just one of many doggies snoozing the afternoon away at the train station)








a colorful crowd at Gateway of India








hanging out with the locals at Chowpatty Beach


More pics to come. But first, lunch.

more on mumbai

Not everything faces the streets; sometimes you have to step into little pockets of alleys to enter a cafe or store. The streets teem with taxis; silvery intricately-etched, horse-drawn carriages; motorbikes; sleeping dogs; women walking while balancing large baskets on their heads; men pushing wagons loaded with pipes or bulky packages; bicyclists; food stalls and clothing vendors spilling over sidewalks. And of course, lots and lots of people. Most folks don't use the sidewalks; instead they walk alongside the traffic. Bombay seems to have this sort of scrim over it, a combination of smoke from heavenly-smelling food stalls, incense burning in every stall, exhaust from the taxis and motorbikes, and dust and dirt rising from the roads.

I initially wanted to spend just a few days in Bombay. I wanted to avoid large cities and try to spend more time in the dessert or hill stations. But I have to say, I'm rather drawn to Bombay--the energy and crazy rhythm.

And, well, it's difficult to leave after having staked out my favorite cafes. I mean really, the food here kicks ass. The best part is you can eat like a little piggie for less than $3! Scandalous.

greetings from mumbai

Still gathering my thoughts, but I can share a few tidbits about Bombay thus far:

Taxi drivers have two modes: driving with right arm slung around the wheel with left hand permanently affixed to the horn; and parked.

I will never eat another chicken kebab as tasty as the one consumed at Leopold's cafe in Colaba. And crazily enough, I've had the loveliest scoop of Italian ice cream here in Mumbai--kiwi, with real bits of kiwi and seeds, which added a nice texture. The girls behind the counter all giggled shyly when they heard my accent. When I asked for directions (to this internet cafe, in fact), the store's manager offered to walk me there, as it was on her way to the bank. She was impressed with my being American--even more impressed that I live in New York. She said she loved her job ("Obviously! All the ice cream I can eat!"), even more than her last job working at a call center for Travelocity. She said her favorite American accent was her boss's, who is from L.A.

Mumbai is HOT. That's all there is to be said about that.

The biggest culture shock about Bombay so far is the poverty. It's everywhere, intermingled with the stunning buildings and shiny Western hotels and cafes. It's heartbreaking to see these tiny woman-like girls (can't be any older than 9? 10?) carrying around their baby siblings like satchels of flour, smiling, hands extended, "Hello, money? Rupees, please? Pretty lady!"

last minute To Do list

- buy new toothbrush
- steal roll of toilet paper from work (i actually prefer the cheaper paper)
- refresh music on iPod
- last load of laundry so I will return to fresh pile of clothes
- throw away food in fridge
- stop picking at ginormous zit on my chin
- return Netflix movies (the same ones I've had since Jan.)
- stop counting the hours 'til take-off

can't quantify nor categorize

There are some things I didn't list in my "To Pack" list that I will still be bringing with me to India. Even though I can't quantify or categorize it, these still deserve to make the list, and will no doubt prove to be invaluable. (List is alphabetized, of course)

Chris = sense of humor and absurdity
Gowoon = The Flaming Lips and looking out for the cutest toys
Jeff = the belief, the spirit and everything else needed
Jodi = when life hands you lemons, make margaritas!
Kyong = sense of discovery, wonderment and excitement
Liz = sense and sensibility
Matt = take the time to sit and enjoy
Ric = put all stereotypes and negativity aside
Shin = endless, loving patience
Tom, Melissa, mom, dad, Alex, Kira, Benjamin = one can never be alone or feel lonely

The Container Store, and the 3-1-1 for carry ons

I stopped by Duane Reade last night and made my first few purchases for my trip, mainly travel-sized items like toothpaste, shampoo, lotion. And I realized I already had almost everything; I just needed to get some small containers for them.

And here is where my FAVORITE-STORE-IN-THE-WHOLE-WIDE-WORLD comes to the rescue. Behold:


This store is amazing. If it has a clasp, zipper, lid or screwtop, The Container Store has it. I stumbled upon it by accident a few years ago. I couldn’t find what I needed at Bed, Bath and Beyond (obviously, “Beyond” has its limitations). I can’t remember what I was looking for, but that’s besides the point. So I skipped across the street to The Container Store. From its boring window displays, it looked like a dull and basic retail store that one could find dull, basic trashcans or dull, basic plastic containers.

But no. The Container Store was neither dull nor basic. It was sublime. It's the motherload of all things that contain. Cute bags, cool office supplies, containers in all shapes, colors, materials, oh my! How could I not have heard about this place before? I could hardly *contain* myself!

Okay, so this morning, I’m at work and I’m quite bored. So I check out The Container Store’s website, you know, to gear me up for when I can physically get to the store. Oooh. Turns out they have a TRAVEL SALE. Oh happiness and light!

So as I’m noting essential travel items such as these luggage tags,
I check out their selection of plastic bottles and jars. And I discover the wonderful world of Nalgene and their travel kits. On their website, they have a note about how the Transportation Security Administration modified its ban on liquids. Oh crap. I forgot about the ban. So I check out tsa.org to get the down low on the rules. I find out that while liquids are allowed, they must be in three-ounce or smaller containers.

I dunno, that seems like such a random number to me. But I must trust their reasoning, because as stated on their website, "Please keep in mind that these rules were developed after extensive research and understanding of current threats." Well now. That explains everything.

for you listy listers

Here’s what I’m packin' (!)
*things left to buy

*neck pouch
day bag
backpack

toothbrush
floss
*travel towel
contacts & solution
ear plugs
glasses
shampoo
soap
lotion
razor
bandaids
hair pins, hairbands
meds & aspirin
lipstick ;)

2 prs cotton pants
2 long-sleeved shirts
3 t-shirts
1 skirt
1 thin sweater
flip flops
socks and unmentionables
belt
sandals

passport (duh)
plane ticket (double duh)
ATM card, credit card, Traveler’s cheque card, ID
copies of important documents

journal and favorite pen(s)
calendar & address book
guidebook
small mag-lite
USB flash drive
cell phone with SIM card/alarm clock
sunglasses
padlock
multi-plug thingy

camera/battery charger
camcorder/charger
*1GB memory card for camera
*card reader
20 or so DV tapes
iPod and charger

Seeing it all listed out, it seems like a lot of crap. But I’ve pared it down as much as possible, or so I think. If you see something I won’t need, or should add, tell me!

The most annoying thing I’ll have to haul around are all those heavy chargers and electronics. I’m so very tempted to buy something small and cute, like this lil' number:
It'd shave off, like, 5 pounds from my pack. But, a) I don't need any more new toys. b) I'd spend just as much on the camera as I would on a week's worth of food & accommodations in certain parts of India. and c) I gather from the comments on Amazon, the image quality is crap.

But it’s so little and cute!

No…must…have…restraint…

Sigh.

The cool thing about the cell phone I’m bringing (my old T-mobile phone) is I can buy a SIM card in India with prepaid minutes, and make local calls there with my cell! It will also double-up as my alarm clock. Cool. I also like the ringtones better than the one on my current Verizon phone.

8 days left

= 190 hours
= 11,400 minutes
= 684,000 seconds

but who's counting...?

"Are you ready for your Mumbai 5/24/2007 trip?"

Orbitz sent me an email entitled, "Are you ready for your Mumbai 5/24/2007 trip?". Ack, no! Not really!

My mind should be filled with images of jaw-dropping temples and ochre-hued Delhi dust storms. Instead, it’s been highjacked by “#$%!~@ Final Cut!” and [command] [z]. I'm in the midst of finals.

But I’ve at least managed to firm up my packing list. Lucky for you, I won't bore you with the details--which, by the way, is down to minutiae of items like "fingernail clippers.” I did notice a difference from my India packing list to the list I made when I went to Europe for a year almost 9 years ago. The main difference? Less books, more electronics with USB ports.

vaccinations and whatnot

I saw an infectious disease specialist last week (funny to watch one's reaction when I tell them that). Though there are no required vaccinations, I just wanted to be extra careful. I'm now vaccinated against Hepatitis A, cholera and diphtheria. Once I fill my prescriptions, I'll also be immune to typhoid and malaria. I'm just imagining the changes to my genetic structure that are being made.

I had hoped the shots would leave little marks on my arm, you know, like battle scars. No such luck.

four more weeks

I'm going to India. I have to say this aloud so that I can get used to it. I know the blog name is rather unoriginal, but hey, it gets the idea across, no?

I leave in 4 weeks. Right now, the plan is to fly into Mumbai (Bombay) and stay there for a few days. Then I'll head northeast, winding my way through Rajasthan towards Delhi, with a sidetrip to Varanasi. From Delhi, I'll head further north and spend some time in the Himalayas, then back down to Delhi, my departure city. At least, that's what I have planned so far. I'm sure my travel plans will get good and scrambled once I'm there.

Just working on my lists right now -- rearranging my "To Do" list, adding and deleting crap from my "To Pack" list. I'm also tagging pages in my Lonely Planet India guide with green and yellow post-it sticky tabs.

Just 4 more weeks! And then I leave for India. (Just practicing saying it aloud again.)